Alice, Italian for anchovy, is a Michelin-starred labor of love between longtime friends and collaborators Viviana Varese and her dining-room chef consort, sommelier Sandra Ciciriello. For both of them, a fondness for fish flourished at an early age — Varese at her family’s Salerno seafood restaurant and Ciciriello at Milan’s esteemed fish market. Their enthusiasm for their craft radiates from a menu that showcases imaginative Mediterranean-inspired seafood such as “Pis + Love,” a take on pasta e fagioli with mussels and octopus. A must-try: Rosemary’s Ceci, a chickpea curry with rosemary extract, blanched squid and squid broth.