Tonina, which opened its doors more than 65 years ago, specializes in tacos from the northern states of Mexico, and may be the only place in town that does. All of the guisados – stews - are meat based; flavors don’t stray from a fairly narrow range. Chilorio, the house special, recalls the taste of that Tex-Mex classic chili con carne, only here it’s beanless. A favorite in the markets of Sinaloa, it is pork cooked with dried chile Colorado, garlic, oregano, cumin and vinegar. It resembles Cuban ropa vieja but with a kick.