Mole poblano, sweet and chocolaty, is the only dish served at this tiny fonda (hole-in-the-wall restaurant), in business for over 60 years; it’s the best in the city. Order chicken, either pechuga (breast), or muslo and pierna (thigh and leg), enchiladas, or simply mole with rice and tortillas, all served with the traditional garnish of raw onion rings, sesame seeds and crumbled queso fresco.