In the heart of Tijuca in the North Zone of Rio, far from the beaches and the tourist hordes, lies one of Rio’s most culinary inventive bars. Bar do Momo is presided over by the prodigious Toninho, who whips up all manner of culinary treasures, ranging from traditional dishes to dizzying new inventions. From 4 p.m. onward, fans can order the awesome Contra File Burger. A huge patty (served rare) with smoked mayonnaise, cheese and caramelized red onions are all wrapped up in a faultless bun. But before you tuck in to your chosen main course, order a couple of bolinhos de arroz, Toninho’s take on arancini. Within the golden crust you’ll find long-grain rice (no highfalutin arborio here) and nuggets of spicy sausage, all generously coated in creamy melted cheese.

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