Affectionately known as "Bar da Dona Ana" after its charismatic owner who is always there to greet her patrons, Galeto 183 is one of Rio's best-kept secrets. There is some irony in this, given that the line that forms every lunchtime is made almost exclusively of journalists from the nearby Globo offices. The real stand-out dish is served only on Wednesdays: Angu do Gomes. This dish of soft polenta served with a rich stew of beef, offal, oxtail, smoked bacon and gravy was made popular in the 1950's by a Portuguese man known to one and all as Gomes. In the '60s and '70s, Angu do Gomes had become one of Rio's great street foods, sold from a fleet of carts across the city. Sadly, the carts are all gone today, but the original recipe, handwritten by Gomes' son for Dona Ana, hangs pride of place on the wall. The line of hungry journos starts to form at 11:30 a.m. and, in a couple of hours, the precious dish is gone. So show up early or miss out. The dish is rich, sticky and velvety and totally worth queuing for.

Eat Rio

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