On a Saturday afternoon, this husband-and-wife team's ad hoc operation - in the standing area of a Caribbean bakery - was nearly as busy as the bakery counter itself. They do business just one day a week, with only two items, beef tripe soup and the beef-based black pudding shown here. Many varieties of blood sausages, as they are also known, are prepared on islands throughout the West Indies. The texture of this one, stuffed with chile-and-scallion-inflected rice, was reminiscent of a just-boiled Cajun boudin. Since mine had been withdrawn from the pot immediately before serving, the contents could be squeezed from the casing with only light pressure from my fingers - no utensils needed.

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