Ilish, also called hilsa, is widely considered the national fish of Bangladesh. Like its cousin the American shad, the ilish is born in fresh water, spends most of its life at sea, then returns to fresh water to spawn, or to be caught in the attempt. (Even so, in this slice a titbit of roe, not readily apparent in the photo, was an unexpected bonus.) It's oily, especially the skin and the "dark meat," and so it pairs well with an absorbent side dish like khichuri, turmeric-tinted rice and lentils. I was cautioned to watch out for little bones but was more concerned about stealthily positioned green chiles; neither proved to be a big concern. Ilish is delicious.

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