In Ghana, and in the Ghanaian neighbourhoods of the Bronx, eating "finger food" is an unusually messy affair. A typical meal at Papaye consists of a starch floating atop a protein-enhanced sauce or soup; with the right hand only, you use the first to help scoop up the second. Fufu is perhaps the most infamous starch, but once you dig in, this thick paste of plantain and cassava is ultimately no more intimidating than mashed potatoes. Its blandness is an ideal foil for chunks of goat flesh - chewy, the way West Africans like them - in a red-pepper-laced soup.

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