The dwindling ranks of New York restaurants that offer "comidas China y Criolla" generally serve one roster of food from the Orient and another from the Occident; the two combine only in name. At Sabrosura, however, the culinary traditions intermarry in a heaping plate of chofan de ropa vieja. Briskly fried Chinese-style rice, or chow fan (chofan, in Dominican shorthand) is laced with Latin-style shredded beef — a classic preparation called ropa vieja (literally, "old clothes," thanks to its raggedy looks) — then decorated with avocado and fried plantain. Ask for it in Spanish, then hear your waiter call out the order to the kitchen in Cantonese.

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