Shawn McClain is one of America’s more reserved celebrity chefs. Despite his major chops and successes in Chicago and Las Vegas, you rarely see him strutting in front of TV cameras or over-extending his brand in slavish pursuit of the almighty dollar. Sage is his flagship in Vegas and it continually puts out jaw-dropping, beautiful food as creative and tasty as any in town. It does so in a dramatic space that is as well-known for its soaring ceilings and absinthe service as it is for the stunning food and crackerjack service. The large and lavish bar in front is also one of the Strip’s best watering holes. The lamb belly is a perfect example of the on-point cooking you find here: crispy, yet meltingly tender, possessed of just a tinge of gaminess set off by a decadent sauce, caramelized onions and peas and pomegranate seeds – each accent strutting its stuff without overwhelming the other or the star of the show. If there’s such a thing as a perfect marriage of meat and veggies, this is it. And if there’s a better dish to go with a fruity, young, premier cru Burgundy, we haven’t found it.

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