Handily located on the Utrechtsestraat, close to the buzzing Rembrandtplein, Tempo Doeloe is as busy and full of atmosphere as you’d expect from its location. Because of that, reservations are essential – although even if you’ve booked well in advance, don’t expect to get seated on time. Despite things being a little chaotic, they do one of the best rijsttafels in town. The dishes come in three spice levels – starting with the mildest and working their way up. Even for a die-hard chilli-addict, the dishes at level three can sometimes be eye-wateringly hot.