This modest trattoria just outside the historic centre is one of the most popular in Italy’s “Food City.” Chef Flavio Benassi and front-of-house Tommaso Maio present inspired countryside dishes that keep the house’s 15 tables full every night, making reservations essential. The menu, built on fresh, locally sourced, perfectly cooked and exquisitely presented ingredients, seldom stays the same for more than a week. But pear-stuffed tortellini with butter and poppy seeds, chestnut-flour spaghetti alla chitara with porcini and hazelnuts, or pistachio-dusted chicken liver pâté are not to be missed. Pro tip: Book at least three weeks in advance. 

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