This quintessential bistrot offers favorite dishes such as sautéed ris de veau (sweetbreads), steak au poivre done with green peppercorns, joue de beouf (beef cheeks) tenderly stewed in burgundy wine, or a côte de boeuf for two, served with fragrant golden pomme frites. Recipes often have a subtle modern twist, but never veer far from tradition. The interior is a beautifully preserved space, zinc bar and all. This is essential Paris at its best.