Poulet aux Morilles

Time has seemingly stood still at Moissonnier, an old-time Lyonnaise restaurant in Paris. Like the rest of the region, the chefs use a lot of butter, cream, fat and offal. The specialty of the house is Poulet aux Morilles, succulent and densely flavored bird served basking in cream and perfumed with a generous helping of woodsy morels. Equally fine is the gigantic quenelle (a fluffy soufflé of fish, cream covered and spiked with nutmeg). The Lyonnaise salads starter turns out to be a cart loaded down with pretty rustic bowls containing enough calories to sink the Lusitania: creamy celery remoulade, mustardy potato salad, big fat chunks of bacon, lemony sweet beets, ham and herring. It's great but heavy food; go for lunch, but don't plan on dinner.

28 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005 Paris, France
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