As recently as 10 years ago the lovely Plaza Vieja was an abandoned parking lot. Now this large space has been gussied up, its 18th and 19th-century colonnaded buildings painted cheerful pastel colours. A perfect place to sit and take in the sights and sounds is the Café el Escorial. Cuban coffee is strong –recommendable is a doble café cortado, two shots of powerful espresso with a little milk. It will keep you going for a set of late night salsa.