In the village of Chagny in Burgundy is a restaurant that has been in the Lameloise family since 1921, but whose kitchen is now in the safe hands of Eric Pas. The room is rustic and dimly lit, but the cooking is of the highest standard. Dishes such as fillet of pigeon with Mirabelle plums and almonds in a gloriously rich sauce show the top-notch technique and flavor balance that this kitchen can pull off. The pastry section is just as capable. For example, a complex lemon dessert shows a mastery of balancing richness with acidity. The wine list reflects the glories of Burgundy, with some bargains at the high end.

See Andy Hayler's blog post: http://tinyurl.com/j6ullbn