In a corner of the elegant Place des Vosges is the restaurant many gourmets consider the best in Paris. Bernard Pacaud has been cooking here since 1986, his cuisine unashamedly classical. The service in the small but elegant dining rooms more formal than is fashionable these days. Langoustine tails nestled between sesame seed tuiles with a mild curry sauce are a fine example of the best of the food here, the shellfish dazzling, the sauce perfectly judged. A signature here is Bresse chicken with tarragon butter and ceps, a simple dish but one that shows the terrific technique in the kitchen.

See Andy Hayler's blog post: http://tinyurl.com/gl3p4l9