In Parque Las Cholas on the border of Zona Zur, skip past the playground and make a beeline for the Cholas, the mighty Bolivian matriarchs marked by their bowler hats, lined up to sell their famous sandwiches. Look out for ‘Doña Cristina’ Crecencia Zurita, who’s held the #6 post for an astounding 53 years, dishing out the city’s champion sandwich de chola. Inside the traditional pan sarnita, the heart of this sandwich is a thick, juicy slice of roast pork shoulder, marinated in a special brine as it cooks. But what elevates this sandwich to the sublime is the generous inclusion of hunks of crispy pork crackling. It’s finished with the standard combo of tomato, carrot and onion pickle and llajua. Like Doña Elvira’s choripan, more sensitive eaters can feel safe, as both ladies form part of the fantastic Suma Phayata initiative run by local fine-dining icon, Gustu, which is training the best local street food sellers to higher hygiene standards, to make the tastiest La Paz street food more accessible to visitors.