Nabbing one of the eight tables at this tiny, cramped restaurant near the Santa Maria Formosa church is a major coup. Chef Bruno Gavagnin is renowned for his aromatic, boldly flavored cooking that puts a new spin on favorite Venetian recipes. For his pasta alle vongole, instead of the usual plate of pasta and clams, he serves a dish of delicious caparossoli clams with a little pasta thrown in, almost as an afterthought. The briny juices from the clams help to flavor the brothy sauce.