Pie de la Cuesta is a natural, unspoiled costal area about a half hour’s drive north of the city, easily accessible by taxi or local bus. The nearly empty beach, whose scary undertow precludes serious swimming, is peppered with thatched palapas and a few rustic bungalow hotels. Maria Cristina, owner of El Marinero prepares a Pacific classic: pescado a la talla. This is a whole fish splayed open, slathered with an adobo - chili mixture, then grilled. It is smoky, the deep red chili just spiky enough not to overwhelm the succulent fish. Served with a salad and fries, an ice cold beer is obligatory.