Birria, the best known dish from Jalisco, is a spicy, soupy stew. Here it’s made with a combination of goat, mutton and beef which is marinated in chilies and spices then slow roasted wrapped in the leaf of maguey, the plant from which tequila and mescal are extracted. The word “tatemada” means charred, and it is this crust that gives this birria its distinctive smoky flavor. Palenque is located upstairs in Guadalajara’s huge Mercado Libertad (AKA San Juan de Díos) and is so popular at lunchtime that several stands are clustered around the “food court”.