Birria, the best known dish from Jalisco, is a spicy, soupy stew. Here it’s made with goat, which is marinated in chilies and spices, wrapped in the leaf of maguey then slow roasted in a pot sealed with corn masa. It is then served bathed in its own broth eaten with a spoon or rolled up into tacos garnished with cilantro, onions and avocado. Las Nueve Esquinas, decorated with cheerful Mexican folklore, is a beloved institution and for good reason: they do birria right.