Now an institution, Helado de Canela was started in 1952 by Vincente Costas and a few friends, who learned a simple technique for making cinnamon sorbet from some Italian immigrants. They set up a handful of stalls near the cemetery and are still there today, run by the second generation of “heladeros.” Tucked behind the flower market opposite the cemetery, they offer their bright red towers of icy sweetness up to passersby and mourners alike. The accompanying traditional cheese empanada eases the brain freeze and balances out the sugar high.