Mercado Lanza
Mercado Lanza, a must-visit in La Paz, is a maze of food stalls offering everything from daily groceries to the gamut of Bolivian fast food. The smells of sizzling meat are tempting, and you could spend months trying everything. Just head for the best: Doña Elvira Goita’s choripan in the corner of Level 3. She has been there for 30 years, and the lines are longer than ever; everybody recognizes the quality of her products, which she carefully tends and watches over, and the flavor of her secret recipe chorizo stands out above everyone in the market. The bread is always fresh, either pan sarnita, a white bun topped with cheese, or pan marraqueta, a hard-crust white bun that tends toward sourdough. The thin and tasty chorizo is perfectly balanced by the carrot and onion pickle, lettuce, tomato and llajua, a traditional spicy sauce of locoto chili and tomato. To miss the crowds, avoid peak lunch (noon to 2 p.m.) and dinner (6 to 8 p.m.) hours.