More so than any other restaurant, Gastón Acurio’s laid-back cevicheria La Mar has brought serious international attention to Peruvian cuisine. Though it has spawned satellite locations as far away as San Francisco and Madrid, the original is the only location where every fish can be traced directly to the fisherman who caught it. The menu has increasingly gotten shorter and focused more on sustainable seafood, which has helped the restaurant get better and better. Aside from the ceviches, tiraditos and various other classic Limeño seafood plates, some of the highlights are the specials, such as the Pescado a la Diablo. The spiky, gnarly looking “devilfish” is fried and tossed in a spicy Nikkei sauce. It’s priced by weight and can usually feed two or three diners.