Mole de caderas only comes around once a year, from mid-October to mid-November, after shepherds in the Mixteca region of Puebla, Oaxaca and Guerrero drive their flocks from the coast inland to slaughter. This spicy stew draws much of its flavor from boiling goat hip and spine bones with tomatoes and chiles. El Burladero serves heaped, hearty bowls of the stuff, arguably the best in town. Tip: Ask your waiter for more broth, as needed.