I was peacefully walking down a street in Bogotá the other day when I noticed a crowd gathered on a sidewalk. Curious, I went over to see what was so interesting. Was it a street performer? An accident? But when I got closer, I noticed the crowd was focused on a mobile cart with plastic stools placed around it, all covered with a large beach umbrella. Then the smell hit me. Grilled arepas. Beef and chicken slow-cooking in clay pots. An arepa stand. I pushed through the crowd to get a good look and there they were – arepas para rellenar, thin arepas made with white corn, grilled over an open flame. When they are golden brown, they are slit open and filled with egg, ham, beef, sausage, chicken and white cheese, in any combination you want. At breakfast time, there are always lots of people lined up waiting for their chance to dig their teeth into one of these arepas at El Vecino, but don’t be discouraged: the wait will be worth it.