Barbacoa, the method of cooking wrapped meat over coals in buried ovens, is a technique that has existed in many places and cultures, including pre-conquest Mexico. Nowadays, barbacoa refers to a specific style of cooking from the center of the country, that is, Puebla, Hidalgo, Querétaro, Guanajuato, the State of Mexico, Michoacán and Morelos. These are the states that happen to produce pulque, therefore, the leaves of the maguey are used to wrap the meat, principally goat or mutton, before it is roasted. Most barbacoa restaurants are only open on weekends, as the meat is prepared outside the city and shipped into town. El Hidalguense is a family-style uber-Mexican restaurant that sports typical folkloric decor and friendly service. It’s the best bet for classic barbacoa in the Roma/Condesa area, and also offers a full menu of breakfast items such as eggs and antojitos as well.