The name of the 454 cheddar burger gives a nod to 10454, a zip code in the South Bronx, in a neighborhood (some say it's part of Mott Haven, other insist Port Morris) that's chock-a-block with older industrial buildings. You don't need to travel far to find an auto-repair shop, if need be, or very good Mexican food, if a mole Oaxaqueño would hit the spot. Just outside the restaurant is a well-traveled roadway that leads to an on-ramp, and to a bridge that can take you out of the Bronx and into Manhattan — or from Manhattan to the converted piano factory that now is home to Charlie’s. Consider this juicy half-pound of grass-fed beef, well-dressed with bacon, cheddar, grilled onions and sherry jam, and clamped in a crisply toasted seeded bun. Perhaps that mole can wait for another night.

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