Slowly but surely, a passage to Cuba is opening up for Americans — but Bronx gastro-tourists have already found their own sunny island of Caribbean flavors, open from lunch till late, seven days a week. Heads are always turning at an endless procession, not of vintage convertibles, but of classic dishes like ropa vieja, a chorizo-stuffed pork tenderloin "boliche," and pollo al mojo, chicken in a lime-garlic marinade. A fresh brunchtime take on a old favorite comes courtesy of the benedicto de cangrejo, whose protein is supplied by lump crab cakes and whose hollandaise is tinted and flavored by chipotle and lemon. Drinks flow freely, as does boisterous talk; in warmer weather both expand to the streetside bar. Indoors or out, yuca fries and mojitos add conversational fuel.

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