Like most first-timers, I'd come for the mole. La Morada makes many uncommon versions of this Oaxacan specialty, though only two or three on any given day. But while perusing the small in-house library (strengths: Latin American literature, political theory), I noticed a waitress ladling sauce over a sandwich. A pambazo, I was told. My own pambazo proved to be full of chunky chorizo and potato, plus a few slices of avocado. The red sauce that soaked into the sandwich bread was thick, but not so spicy; for that personal touch, hot sauce stood at the ready, a squeeze bottle of sour cream by its side. Eventually I returned to the library - but first, many napkins were needed.

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