Preparing a new, seasonal menu from scratch every single day is a complicated affair. So it comes as no surprise, that  River Tavern and Dinners at the Farm owner Jonathan Rapp, has launched a simpler concept for his long-awaited second restaurant: a pizzeria. But, as you can imagine, this ain’t no House of Pizza. At a preview this weekend, the team didn’t have many kinks to work out. Chewy, crispy, glorious pies, using only locally sourced ingredients, emerged from the 900 degree, wood-fired oven in three minute intervals. For me, always a pizza purist, the Margherita, oozing with fresh mozzarella, dollops of stracchiatella and strewn with basil leaves, was a slice of pizza heaven, but the more complex pies are beautifully executed, too (from sausage and peppers to shrimp, squid, mint and garlic). The only drawback? 32 seats. Get there early.

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