In case you haven't noticed, French food is back with a vengeance. And nowhere is its re-discovered brilliance more in full-flower than at Michael Mina's Bardot Brasserie in the Aria Hotel. Updated classics like Croque Madame and salad Niçoise are re-invigorated here by Executive Chef Josh Smith and his crew, and you won't find better escargot or steak tartare anywhere in town. But as brilliant as those (and the towering shellfish platters) are, it's the lobster Thermidor that always elicits gasps of wonder from the dining room crowd. Thick chunks of tail and claw get a nice bath in a brandy cream sauce, before being reassembled and topped with a sauce Béarnaise that is so rich it ought to have its own tax bracket. It is so so French, so very decadent, and so very very Vegas.

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