Years ago, there was a Shanghai-inspired eatery called 3 Villages Chinese, a couple of miles down Spring Mountain Road from this modest storefront on Jones Boulevard. Almost from the moment it opened, it was packed with lovers of all things Chinese and starchy. Chinese restaurants aren’t known for advertising the name of their chef, but when Jimmy Li left 3V, the dip in quality was noticeable and the tent quickly folded. Now, he’s back in business with a postage stamp of a joint serving Chinese dishes (some served with certain Western sensibilities) of a quality you usually only find in the tonier Chinese restaurants in the nicer hotels. Li dazzles with his soups, short ribs, rack of lamb and lobster salad, but his spoon-tender tongue - with a fiery XO sauce- is offal eating at its best. His poached oyster, swimming in sweet-pungent garlic broth, is nothing to sneeze at either. Put them all together and you have an upscale Chinese restaurant with decidedly downscale prices – and one that is soon to start showing up on all kinds of “best of” lists. They also feature an impressive lineup of farm-to-cup Chinese teas (served properly), so lovers of the leaf will think they’ve died and gone to heaven.