Maneki is impressive on paper: well-over a century old, it’s seen celebrated sushi chefs start their careers and even employed a future Japanese prime minister in the dish pit. But it’s even better in person, when you can taste the food: huge slabs of fresh fish comes as nigiri, draped over the rice like a royal cape; marinated black cod, sticky with flavour, flakes at the sight of a fork; and both are complemented with the gentle sour of elegant pickles. A reservation is a requisite, especially for those hoping for one of the coveted tatami rooms, but, should you show up unannounced, check for a spot at the bar where, if the timing is good, an octogenarian known as “Mom” will serve your snacks and sake.