And of course, everything old is new again. We've got housemade paletas, the Mexican version of frozen ice pops, at Neveria la Vallesana on Cherokee Street, where they're surrounded by Mexican stores and other restaurants. Both the simple, like coconut with chunks of coconut meat in it, and the more exotic, like mango chile, seduce. Ice cream by the scoop, too, in flavors both simple and striking, like rice (we haven't seen that since a trip to Florence). There's a restaurant here as well, but you can find the ice cream counters at the very front of the store.