Run by the same people who ran pop-ups extraordinaire Repéré and Foyer, they’re back at a permanent location on de Ruyterkade behind central station. The menu is short, with dishes appearing as ingredient lists rather than florid descriptions. The three-course menu is €31, and you get to choose between three starters, three mains and three desserts. If you take the four- or seven-course menu, you get less choice – but who needs it when the food is this good? The menu changes seasonally. A recent starter, pictured, comprised black rice, tiny pieces of pork, and squid sliced so thin it resembled tagliatelle or flat rice noodles. It was delicate and delicious and topped with a few salty-sweet clams for good measure. Hyper-organic, every dish looks like an oil painting.

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De Ruijterkade 128, 1011 AC Amsterdam, Netherlands
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