Cork city, capital of Ireland’s largest county (County Cork), has more than 1,000 kilometers of coastline to the south and productive farmland to the east, north and west. Big or small, farmers and fishermen play an important role in the area’s culinary cuisine.

Smoked Salmon - Belvelly Smokehouse

Visitors come to see the whales and dolphins off the coast. But it is the smaller fish that end up on the plates in homes and restaurants. The haul is caught overnight and quickly brought from the ports of Castletownbere and Ballycotton to the stalls in the English Market and to the delightful Fish Bar in Electric. Top-notch smoked fish, filleted and cured within a day of catch, is available from Belvelly Smokehouse, Ireland’s oldest smokehouse. Established by Frank Hederman more than 30 years ago, the timber smoke house is the only authentic one in Ireland where fish are hung for smoking. The result is a melt-in-the-mouth texture and lean, flavorsome fish.

Belvelly Smoke House: Cobh, Cork, Ireland 

Coolea Cheese - Coolea Farmhouse Cheese

Lots of dairy herds -- cows and goats -- roam the verdant pastures of County Cork. And that means lots of cheese. West Cork led the way with artisan cheese from Milleens, Gubbeen and Coolea. Many more, including Hegarty’s Cheddar and Carrigaline, are prominent, and creamy goats cheese comes from Ardsallagh, Blue Bell Falls and Orchard Cottage Dairy. The most recent newcomer is the superb fresh mozzarella made of water buffalo milk at Toonsbridge Dairy.

Coolea cheese, known worldwide, is handmade from fresh cow’s milk on the mountain farm of Dick and Sinead Willems in Coolea, County Cork. Mild and creamy with a distinct flavor, Coolea cheese has won several international awards, including the prestigious Supreme Champion at IFEX Belfast 1999, Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards 2000, Best Modern British Cheese and Best Irish Cheese at the British Cheese Awards 2007 and 2010, Gold Award in Shop 2009, Best Matured Gouda in the World Cheese Awards 2008 and Supreme Champion at the Listowel Food Fair in 2008 and 2009.

Coolea Farmhouse Cheese: Coolea, Macroom, County Cork, Ireland 

Free Range Pork - Woodside Farm 

The local farmer’s markets started in Midleton in 1999. Years later, there’s a waiting list for stalls at the vibrant, friendly Saturday morning market. Increasingly, farmer’s markets are making a big impact surrounding Cork City, including Wilton (Tuesdays), Mahon (Thursdays) and Douglas (Saturdays). And every day, the English Market (founded 1778) opens its doors and, on Saturday, the heart of city welcomes the Coal Quay Market.

For a real farmer’s market treat, head to the Woodside Farm stall. Just follow the smell of the slow roasting pig and get yourself some of that delicious, juicy-tasty free-range meat in a bun. More than a lunch, it will set you up for the day.

Woodside Farm sells free-range pork at Midleton Farmers Market from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday; at Mahon Point Farmers Market from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday; and at Douglas Court Farmers Market from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday. 

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Fish on the bone - Elbow Lane 

A whole sea bream arrives on the bone at Elbow Lane. / Courtesy of Elbow Lane

This little city center venue styles itself as a brew and smokehouse. And from the open kitchen, the chef grill serves beautiful duck, lamb and the tastiest T-bones, along with entire fish. And you can wash it all down with hand-crafted beer (all named after medieval lanes in the city) from the nano-brewery in the next room. Be sure to book ahead, as seating is limited to 25 people.

Elbow Lane Brew and Smoke House: 4 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork, Ireland

Cured sea bream - Crawford Gallery Cafe

In recent years, Cork chefs have learned from nationalities coming to the country. But they also learn when they travel abroad. You’ll see some of the results at the lovely Crawford Gallery Cafe, in the heart of the city center art gallery. At the former custom house built in 1724, the ever-changing menu includes this delicious starter with a touch of the Middle East. The Cured Sea Bream with Pomegranate Juice and Cumin looks like a work of art. And the terrific flavors and textures of the rich fish are enhanced by the juice and takes a wee lift from the cumin.

Crawford Gallery Cafe: Emmet Place, Cork, Ireland

Malaysian Fish Curry - Phó Bar & Restaurant

Outside influences have always impacted Irish food, especially in recent decades with the arrival of hundreds of thousands of Eastern Europeans. There is no shortage of Polish, African, Portuguese, Spanish and Italian shops, along with   French-style restaurants such as Star Anise, Jacques, Club Brasserie, Les Gourmandises and Huguenot. Even the lovely wine cafe L’Atitude 51 Wine Café, which features wines around the world.

The cuisine of South Asia is very popular in Cork, and the Pho Bar, helmed by Chef Prakash from Penang, is a good spot to enjoy it. His fish curry is always in demand and the Roti Prata is another favorite. But Pho also offers noodle dishes and stir-fried options, as well as craft beers and Asian inspired cocktails. Aroi is another Asian restaurant option, as is the excellent Iyer’s (vegetarian) on Cork’s quayside.

Phó Bar & Restaurant: Douglas Street, Cork, Ireland

Spiced Beef Rump - Nash 19

Spiced beef is a Cork tradition and, until recently, it was a Christmas treat. Nowadays, you can order it year-round. The recipe is something of a secret, but brown sugar, pimento, ground cloves and juniper berries are part of the mix. 

Nash 19 has been a great supporter of local produce for more than 20 years, much of that produce bought from the nearby English Market. If there, ordering the Producers Plate is a must. The O’Connell Spiced Beef Rump with Casseroled Red Cabbage is a perfect combination enhanced by perfectly cooked vegetables, including spot-on roasties.

Nash 19: 19 Princes St., Cork, Ireland

Baby Carrots with Buttermilk Yoghurt and Roast Kombu - Cafe Paradiso

Fresh (often organic) vegetables are easily obtained at the markets and at places like Fresh from West Cork in Bradley’s. Quality and variety have increased in recent years, years in which Cafe Paradiso has become known as Ireland’s best vegetarian restaurant, Ireland’s best restaurant overall according to some. 

Head Chef Denis Cotter started in 1993 with the aim of taking “vegetarian cooking out of the health food industry and away from the perception of meat-free cooking being somewhat penitential. Dishes were created with a focus on vegetables rather than lentils, and with no agenda other than sharing the pleasure of real food prepared with skill and passion.”

He has had no shortage of customers since, either for the food or his many cookbooks.

Cafe Paradiso: 16 Lancaster Quay, Cork, Ireland

Lion’s Mane Mushroom - Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms

Not long ago, a mushroom on a local menu meant some of the button or flat field type. No longer. Lucy Creegan and Mark Cribben, the couple behind Ballyhoura Mushrooms, have changed all that. Between their foraging and cultivation, you can get virtually any type of mushroom in Cork. They started off at a small market stall, in a guest slot, and have not looked back.

Michelin chefs around the country were soon queuing up. But local restaurants are well cared for and the likes of Kate Lawlor at Fenn’s Quay, Bryan McCarthy at Greenes Restaurant and Denis Cotter at Café Paradiso make terrific use of this newfound bounty. Ballyhoura mushrooms also shine at The House Cafe (in the Opera House). Here they are served simply, with tarragon, on toasted sourdough. Sometimes, less is more.

Mahon Point Farmers Market, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday; Cornmarket Street from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Midelton Farmers Market from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday

Shellfish - The Cornstore

The Cornstore is well known for its aged steak. The Tomahawk is a must-try. But the restaurant also is expert in fish. No wonder their mantra is “Quality Food Sourced Locally.” And then there are the cocktails. Not to mention the jazz. This is one lively venue and busy all the time. If you can't get a booking, try their junior partner, Coqbull, specializing in chicken wings, beef burgers and cocktails. Both venues offer a food along with a selection of craft beers and whiskey.

Cornstore Restaurant: 40A Cornmarket Street, Cork

Smoked salmon - Greenes 

Greenes is beautifully situated by a small waterfall. But you soon forget the view outside when the dishes by head chef Bryan McCarthy arrive at the table. This is another farm-to-fork restaurant, full of good stuff from local producers such as black pudding king Jack McCarthy, mushrooms from Ballyhoura and fish from West Cork, where the chef grew up. In season, watch for his Seared Wild Irish Venison Haunch Fillet. For an amazing starter dish, order the Cured Organic Deenish Island Salmon.

Greenes Restaurant: 48 MacCurtain St. Cork City, Ireland

Vanilla Carrageen Moss - Fenn’s Quay 

At No. 5 Fenn’s Quay, you’ll find Kate Lawlor, another award-winning chef dedicated to using local produce. Among her regular best-sellers: O’ Mahony’s Feather Blade of Beef with Ballyhoura Mushroom Duxelle with Celeriac Purée & Vegetable Crisps; and O’ Mahony’s Collar of Bacon with Savoy Cabbage, Parsnip Puree & Spiced Walnuts.

There is no shortage of seaweed on the Cork coast, and Kate’s use of Carrageen Moss in her signature Vanilla Carrageen Moss dessert has won her many plaudits. It is a great way to finish, especially if you’ve had the beef or the bacon.

No 5, Fenn's Quay: Sheares Street, Cork City, County Cork, Ireland

Cod with Caper and Sun-Dried Tomato Butter - The Farmgate Café 

Cork cuisine all comes together at The Farmgate Cafe, founded in 1994. There is no better place to sample the area’s cuisine, as the cafe is in the middle of the iconic English Market, on a mezzanine overlooking many of the stalls. Soak up the buzz while you enjoy such traditional dishes such as Tripe and Drisheen and Spiced Beef. If you want oysters, the wait staff simply runs downstairs and gets them from fishmonger Pat O’Connell (who had a much-televised chat with the visiting Queen in 2011).

Mother Kay and daughter Rebecca Harte keep Pat busy. There is always a fish special. Look for the cod, served with a caper and sun-dried tomato butter. Looked well. A certain A.A. Gill of the Sunday Times had been in a few days beforehand and praised it to the rafters.

Take note of the the poems on the wall, contributed by Ireland's leading poets, while you enjoy the poetry on the plate.

Farmgate Café: The English Market, Princes Street, Cork, Ireland